September 9, 2017
In my last post, I reviewed Chef Akira Yoshizumi’s Yohei Omakase, which is his standard menu. You can see the menu here. After that meal, I asked Chef Yoshizumi for my next reservation and made sure to note that I wanted the extended menu, also know as his Yoshi Omakase. This menu not only has more items, but also exclusive and premium items that are usually only found in high-end sushi-ya’s in Japan.
Having been there several times in talking with Chef Yoshizumi, he has shared many of his experiences and passion in Edomae sushi. It is interesting to note that his career in sushi actually started domestically in San Francisco. His career has its ups and downs, but it is a very inspiring story about his dedication to the art of Edomae sushi.
From his website, it is noted that in 1996 he moved to San Francisco from Kyoto and started his culinary career in sushi at a couple of restaurants. He eventually moved to New York where he worked at “Hatsuhana sushi” that taught him the basis for Edomae sushi. He returned to San Francisco to perfect his art in Edomae sushi, but could not find a place to hone his skills as the sushi served was not one that used the traditional techniques of aging and curing of fish and serving with strong vinegared rice that are trademarks of Edomae sushi.
In 2004, he followed his passion and went to Tokyo to learn the arts from various sushi masters. It sounded like a humbling experience as he noted that he realized his skills were not at the level he wanted it to be at. He continued his trips to Tokyo for 10 years, before meeting with Takumi Okabe who took him as an apprentice, and helped to solidify his foundations. Takumi Okabe is the same mentor for Masa Takayama who owns Masa in New York, which has a $450 omakase menu. We are very fortunate he settled for the Bay Area to open his restaurant in 2014.
Here is what he served us on this visit, and note that high-end omakase is very seasonal, so no two visits are ever the same.
Our meal starts off with a bang as we are served his creation of amaebi (sweet shrimp) and uni with a light soy. Beautiful combination of sweet shellfish and briny, ocean flavors.
I love his Katsuo Bonito, which like last time is very fatty and delicious. He topped it two ways with a ginger/scallion mix and Japanese mustard with his signature soy.
Steamed awabi (abalone) is so tender and served with wasabi and it’s kimo (liver). You wash it down with broth made from the steamed juices. So simple but so amazing.
Nodoguro (black throat perch, aka akamatsu) is so fatty. It’s torched and drizzled with soy to bring out the perfect combination of flavors and textures.
His standard too of samplers. Like last time you get buttery soft ankimo (monk fish liver) and tender braised take (octopus). However, this time he gives a marinated in a light soy hotate (scallop) instead of the shako. Either way, we enjoy his trio in any combination.
Okra and tomato in a vinegar marinate to cleanse the palate before the nigiri course.
If you been reading my other sushi posts, Kohada (gizzard shad) is my favorite sushi and is always a test of a true sushi master’s skill. Chef Yoshizumi does some of the best preparations I had around, where it’s not over salted and soaked too long in vinegar. It’s perfect.
Takabe is called Yellow Striped butterfish and was a new fish for me. Never had this anywhere. It has a fatty texture, almost like nodoguru, but with a sweeter finish. It was very good and something I’ll look for in the future.
Wonderful aji, from a big specimen and line caught to retain the taste and texture. Like last time’s visit, one of the best I had anywhere.
Chef Yoshizumi’s kanpachi is aged upwards of 14 days. As noted last time, it is stunning in its softness and unique in its flavor in a good way.
Akami of the maguro. Aged for over a week to become buttery soft, and marinated in his soy the moment you sit down to complement the flavors.
Chu-toro is medium fatty tuna from the same maguro as above and also aged for over a week. I can eat several pieces of this nigiri.
Sumi-ika (a type of squid), where the upper layer is removed, leaving a more tender and softer bottom portion. It is dusted with fresh yuzu rind and some lemon juice and salt. Love the combo.
Kuruma ebi is Japanese Imperial Prawn, and one of my favorite. You only get this from high-end omakase and it’s season lasts from late Autumn to the end of Winter. One of my favorite shellfish.
Japanese iwashi, sardine, which has such a fatty texture and has a strong but delicious flavor. Probably my second favorite fish after the Kohada.
Hokkaido bafun uni, served directly to your hand. I had this way served to me at a couple of sushi places in Tokyo, as the uni will lose its form if you don’t eat it right away. You can never go wrong with fresh bafun uni.
This is something i usually never get anywhere in the Bay Area, only in Tokyo. It is Akagai, or ark shell clam. It is usually washed carefully in vinegared water, then carefully butterflied. It is very sweet and has a refreshingly chewy texture.
Kin-Medai is next. It has a unique texture that is not too soft nor too crunchy. It has a slight briny taste in the beginning then finishes sweet, with lots of flavor.
Hamaguri is a salt water clam from Japan, and his are prepared with a technique called Ni-hama, marinated in soy. I haven’t seen this from him in a while but I remember the first time I visited Yoshizumi and had this dish…and was blown away by the flavors. It’s just as great.
Negi-toro temaki signals that our meal is getting close to the end.
Our last nigiri is Anago, which is his sea conger eel. It’s braised, then torched, and topped with salt.
Our savory course comes to an end with a clear broth made from fish bone. Inside there are pieces of various fish and seaweed.
Our dessert is like the Yohei menu, which is Hojicha (roasted green tea) panna cotta.
Our meal finishes with his castella-like tamago-yaki.
That concludes our Yoshi Omakase meal. If you do a side by side comparison with the Yohei, you’ll find we got a lot more dishes and several premium items. I find Yoshizumi as simply the best the Bay Area has to offer. I have already booked my next visit back.
Address:
Sushi Yoshizumi
325 E 4th Ave. San Mateo CA 94401
P: (650) 437-2282