Kagari opened in 2013 and has built up a reputation considered to be one of the best in Tokyo. In fact, when the Michelin group awarded Tsuta a one star award, several Japanese publications were surprised that Kagari was not awarded a star as well. Instead it has been on Michelin’s Bib Gourmand list which is Michelin’s list of recommended places to eat at moderated prices for the past several years. After one visit, we can understand the surprise as it easily became my favorite ramen anywhere.
Located in the heart of Ginza in an alley, near the Mitsukoshi department stores, it is literally a hole in the wall. However it is easy to find as you’ll see a long line of patrons wanting some of the best ramen they ever had.
A big SOBA sign marks this otherwise non-descript restaurant. Like Tsuta, the soba is not in reference to the buckwheat noodles, but to chuka-soba, which means Chinese wheat noodles. So you can be assured you are eating ramen and not the soba made from buckwheat.
There are no ticket machines commonly found at ramen places in Japan. Instead, as you get to the front of the line, a menu is given to you and your order is taken by the staff so that the chefs can start your order while you wait to be seated. Once inside, you’ll find that the restaurant is tiny, with a U-shaped counter seating 8 people. It’s a good way to get to know your neighbors.
You can also see the tiny kitchen space the two chefs cook at. Despite having 4 children with us (making us a party of 6) the chefs were very friendly and helpful.
There are several ramen on the menu. They have a niboshi (dried anchovy) shoyu, tsukemen, and tori paitan. Side orders include the seasonal vegetables chicken slices, beef slices, and soft-boiled egg. There were a couple of appetizers offered.
We ordered the yaki-onigiri chazuke. The rice ball is perfectly grilled with a nice coating of a soy sauce mix that caramelizes the rice over the heat. You then pour a small container filled with diluted tori paitan broth over the rice. The broth softens the crispy rice on the crust of the onigiri and makes a nice appetizer.
The star of the restaurant is without a doubt the tori paitan ramen. Tori paitan is gaining popularity in my home town of San Francisco. It is thick emulsified chicken based broth with a shio tare. However, nothing in my hometown can compare to Kagari. In fact, I am not sure if any ramen in Japan can compare as well.
As the bowl of ramen comes out, you are handed a beautiful light golden, creamy noodle soup topped with perfectly cooked chicken breast, seasonal greens, onions, lotus root, Kyoto bamboo shoots, and green beans.
The broth is the star of the show. It has such intense chicken flavor, yet so smooth and evenly thick, but not too sickeningly rich like tonkatsu ramen. The color is almost like the corn potage soup that is popular in Japan. I still vividly remember how amazing the flavor was, and my mouth is watering as I write this post.
The noodle are slightly thick, yet pleasantly chewy. It goes great with the rich soup base. The seasonal vegetables were a perfect complement and come only from the best of what’s offered in the season. The chicken slices were moist, tender, and so juicy. Overall, it is a ramen experience I never had before and this is easily my new favorite ramen anywhere.
The main branch is very popular. This is the line when we left at the front of the restaurant in the alley, but…..
The line wraps around the street of Ginza, almost to the end of the block. This can be over a 3 hour wait as the restaurant caters to parties by group, so even though seats open, they save the seats for the party. Do note that due to the popularity, they have opened 3 other branches since the main branch’s opening. The closest is a 10-15 minute want away at the train station. Supposedly there is very little wait at that branch, so if you see the long queue at the main branch in Ginza, you may want to go to the Kagari Echika branch.
Ginza Kagari Honten (main branch and the most popular):
Address:
Chuo-ku, Ginza 4-4-1, Ginza A Building 1F 中央区銀座4-4-1銀座Aビル1F
Hours:
Weekdays 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m., 5:30-10:30 p.m
Sat. and holidays 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m., 5:30-9 p.m
Kagari Echika (train station between exits C1 and C2 in the underground mall)
Address:
Chuo-ku, Ginza 4-1-2, Echika Fit 中央区銀座4-1-2, Echika Fit
Hours:
11am-11pm (last seating at 10pm)