I first learned of Sushi Nagai from an ad on Instagram. The ad noted that the Chef and Co-owner, Tomonori Nagai, graduated from culinary school in Japan and worked in Japan, Hawaii, New York, and Singapore. It highlighted that while in Singapore, he worked at one Michelin star Shinji by Kanesaka. Curious, I tried to look up information on the Chef and very little information came up. I’m assuming Sushi Nagai is following recent patterns of luring disciples from top Japanese sushi-ya and showcasing them in newly opened sushi-ya. However, what truly caught my eye was the focus on traditional edomae style sushi and I could not resist despite the steep price of $200/ person. Reservations were easy to make and they had same-day availability. We went in May which I like to note as omakase is about seasonal ingredients and will change quite often.
When we arrived near the restaurant, one thing to note was that it was not in one of the best areas of Downtown, San Francisco. When we entered the restaurant, we noticed it was huge, comprising two T-shaped counters and seating over 20. There were two sushi chefs working on one side and Chef Nagai at the other. While waiting, I observed the two younger chefs, and I admit I was not impressed with their interactions with their techniques. They seemed to be serving guests they knew. They seemed pretty young in their sushi careers, and I am guessing they are partners with Chef Nagai. Fortunately, we were lucky as we were seated at the area manned by Chef Nagai.
Chef Nagai was personal, he even posed for one of my pictures in a “monkey” like stance, but unfortunately, the photo came out blurry. He also looked relatively young and had decent English. While observing him, I found he had good nigiri molding techniques. Also as we talked throughout the meal, I found he had a very good knowledge of aging and curing techniques.
The first of two otsumami was hotaru ika. They were simply boiled and were plump and fresh.
Sashimi of Kinmedai that was konbujime was next otsumami. I was a little disappointed that there were only two ostumami at this price point, but at least what was served was good.
The sushi courses were next and I was happy to see that the shari is an aka-su and kome-su blend. It was at good body temperature, consistency, and well seasoned. The following were served:
- Wild Red Tai (Snapper)
- Kamasu (barracuda)
- Akami Zuke (marinated lean blue-fin tuna
Our nigiri continued, and I was happy to see that Chef Nagai follows a good nigiri flow. Too many of the high-end omakase places in San Francisco have focused on a kaiseki/nigiri hybrid that I am not fond of and feel ruins the flow of the sushi.
- Chutoro – aged 7 days and a great piece
- O-toro
- Aji – very good piece
- Saba
Chef Nagai noted that the next piece was supposed to be Katsuo, but since we had a good time talking with him, he upgraded the piece to a very nice nodoguro (black throat perch). Nodoguro is one of the fattiest white fish you can get, and this was an excellent piece.
Grilled tairagai (pen shell clam) had a little too much shimichi for my taste. Would have preferred it simply grilled and sauced with nikiri.
I was disappointed with the tiger pawn nigiri. This is not a high-end tane (sushi topping). I did like that he put oboro (traditional sweet shrimp paste), but at this price point, the topping should not be served.
Bafun uni was very good as it was fresh, briny, and creamy.
Red Miso signals we are close to the end of our meal.
Buttery soft anago was expertly prepared. It was served in two ways, one was with sauce and the other simply with salt.
Our last several pieces before dessert.
- chutoro maki
- kanpyo maki – traditonal maki of gourd and it was good here
- tamago – good castella-like version
The meal finishes with a monaka of green team ice cream and red bean paste for dessert.
Overall, I enjoyed my meal at Sushi Nagai. I found the Chef Nagai engaging and knowledgeable. I see a lot of potential with his sushi career and hopes that he succeeds. I will admit, my overall experience was mixed. Here are some of the positives:
- Young, but a talented chef who knows edomae techniques
- Shari had good temperature, consistency, and well-seasoned
- Pure focus on sushi and not a hybrid sushi/kaiseki
These were some of the areas of improvement:
- Only two otsumami, which is pricey for $200/person
- Large space with as many as four chefs that can serve over 20 customers in a seating. Other than Chef Nagai, the others did not seem as talented based on observing them.
- Most of the tane (sushi toppings) did not stand out for the price, including disappointing tiger pawn
- Have since read of inconsistency in the shari on sushi forums
- Location was not in the safest of areas at night
In summary, while I thought Chef Nagai was personable and had potential, the price point makes it hard to repeat as this is Sushi Yoshizumi extended menu price range. The ingredients are not even close to what Yoshizumi offers. Also, the large number of chefs at the restaurant means you may not get Chef Nagai. If you do go, try to request for Chef Nagai.
Restaurant Info:
Address:
125 Ellis Street, San Francisco, CA 94102
Telephone: 415 658 7371
Website: https://sushinagaisf.com/