After finishing our hike along the beautiful and scenic coastline of Cape Kamui, we drove about an hour and half to the highlight of our trip, Zaborin Ryokan. Nestled in a quiet forest in Hanazono of Niseko, the ryokan is deliberately remote and secluded to provide a refuge of serenity and tranquility. In fact, per the ryokan’s website the name Zaborin (坐 忘 林) is a combination of zabo (坐 忘 – to sit and forget) and rin(林 – in the woods or forests) which combined together translates “to sit and forget amongst the woods”, which is an accurate description of our experience here as time seemed to slow down and allowed to appreciate the surrounding nature and simply unwind and be at peace with ourselves.
Zaborin is a relatively new ryokan that opened in 2015. It combines the best elements of Japanese tradition, modern architecture, simplistic zen-like style, and rustic charm. Typical of most ryokan, from our very first step into the ryokan, we were transported away and experienced the true essence of omotenashi, which is the very best hospitality that only a top-end ryokan can offer.
The living room area greets us while we wait to be checked in as it also served as the reception lounge. A beautiful fireplace that served as the focal point of the area, showcasing a blend of modern yet simplistic feel that is inviting.
Our room was a villa called Fubuki and it was able to accommodate our party of six. Big windows greeted us to views of white birch trees of Hanazono forests.
Unlike other ryokans, Zaborin has all the latest and greatest in modern amenities. A large screen tv with satellite programing, wi-fi, nepresso coffee machine, and other modern comforts ensure you can enjoy your ryokan experience without compromise.
Our main bed room is where the tatami mats and our futon was located. A gorgeous panoramic view of Hanazora forest greets us as we sleep, wake, or just stare at the majestic views.
As our family is staying here, additional beds are in another section of the main room. Zaborin, has very flexible accommodation options that perfect for a large family like ours.
Unlike many other ryokans we stayed at, the bath room is very modern and up-scale. The sink area also serves as a changing room and is a gateway to the villa’s two onsens.
The indoor onsen routes water from the depths of Niseko any is filled with the purest volcanic spring water that is mineral-rich and said to rejuvenate the skin.
The other is an open-air onsen called the rotenburo, that is strategically place to allow you to appreciate nature. While my first time hearing about Zaborin involved it’s winter scenery patched with snow, I think the summer scene is just as beautiful that is filled with the lush greenery. The water from the bath overflows to below in an infinity-like fashion, enhancing the experience as you hear the water fall below.
A view of the balcony from the onsen showcases the amazing architecture that blends the aspects of zen with modern as you see the birch trees.
Dinner is served in a separate floor and room at the ryokan. Chef Yoshihiro Seno serves one of the best meals I had in all of Japan. Chef Seno was born in Hokkaido, but evolved and maturated his culinary experiences in Tokyo and New York. He works closely with the local farmers and even forages for his own ingredients in the surrounding hills to showcase his creations of the local area. His dishes truly showcases the beauty of each ingredient and he calls his version of his course kita-kaiseki, which is more natural flow and style than the kaiseki of Kyoto.
We start our meal with a beautiful and colorful dish of seasonal vegetables and locally harvested edible flowers from the surrounding forests. A beautifully and refreshing course to start our meal.
The next course is the “Zaborin’s Land, water, and sea” course. Simmered abalone, braised octopus, and a perfectly fried fresh water fish is paired with foraged vegetables that are expertly fried with a delicate tempura batter and lightly simmered local vegetables.
Our next course is a clear soup course made from kabura turnips expertly sliced to resemble noodles. A mochi wrapped dumpling of kegani crab completes the dish. It’s one of the most memorable dishes I had the pleasure of eating.
Our next cause is a pan-seared gurnard, also known as a red robin. It is a delicate and lean fish that has a great flavor. It is paired with garlic shoots and topped with toasted hokkaido nori.
Ohsuke salmon (known here as chum salmon) is in its height of season in Hokkaido so it’s really fatty. It is paired with its ikura and local vegetables. The sauce was a light soy mix and citrus in its own container so you can control the amount of sauce you want.
Next up is the sashimi course composed of Hokkaido Tuna, same flounder, murasaki uni, and kegani. Foraged horse-radish is paired over wasabi as it is locally sourced.
Negaimo (mountain yam) slices topped with sweet hotate sashimi and locally harvested vegetables from the forest. The presentation is top-notched, with some beautiful ceramic-ware. It also serves as a palate cleanser for the next course.
Next up is a perfectly grilled Hokkaido A5 wagyu. The hostess mention it is seasoned with fragrance of Zaborin forest by letting the meat rest in a charred leaf of a local plant. It;s is paired with lightly poached radish from their garden.
Our main courses wraps up with kurosengaku (type of black beans) rice prepared in a big kamado-san vessel and scooped individually for each of us and miso soup.
Dessert came in two courses. White birch sap (like how maple is extracted but from the birch tree) jelly that is crystal clear is paired with herb water. Not only was it unique but the taste is refreshing and just amazing how they used this ingredient from the nearby trees. The full meal wraps up with ice cream toped with a matcha sauce and local strawberries.
I have stayed in many ryokans, and love eating the kaiseki dinners, but Zaborin’s Chef Seno serves the best meals I ever had in any of them. In fact, his elaborate menu is one of my top three in all of Japan.
After the meal, we made our way to the lounge area to relax. While my wife and kids had matcha team, I enjoyed myself with an order from their bar of a Taketsuru 25-year-old whisky. I can buy the 17 and 21 here in the states, but this version was even better. Light but tastable peat, it was smooth, oily and complex with hints of sherry notes. A perfect way to end an evening in a perfect setting.
One night is truly not enough, and I am so happy to have foresight in booking two night stay at Zaborin. In the next post I will share pictures of the facility, nearby attraction, and more of Chef Seno’s amazing creations.